How does a climbing cam work reddit. And yes we are scared of falling. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Passive pro works if you can find a bigger opening and slide sideways. Some of the advice is also applicable to passive protection too. So once your piece is in the opening gets bigger. The home of Climbing on reddit. 1. 10 votes, 10 comments. Trying to master my gear placement though. I buy tons of used metolius cams because they will resling and refurbish them for like $9 or so a piece. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. FYI - placing cams is not sport climbing. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Welcome to this delightful sport; you have MUCH to learn about it. . While they may be a little heavier, they provide way more options than other cams letting you take less pro into the alpine (remember in alpine climbing; more slings, less metal). Just my 2c The pull of the rope caused the cam to walk into a bad placement. I wish they would have zoomed in on the cam as the forklift was lifting the chain. Of course you shouldn't use this as your only means of instruction but it does point out most of the major issues when placing cams. 5 and 5. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. They're also great to save for anchors as the chance you'll be able to get a link in is much greater than any other cam. Nice demo of how they don't always work. They’re made out of strong metals with plenty of tensile strength to hold the load, and the cams themselves are geometrically designed to lock harder against the walls the harder you pull on them. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. That would've have been interesting to watchI think. 12 votes, 48 comments. For trad climbing you use things called "cams" which are basically a special quickdraw you place into a crack in the rock which expands so it doesn't come out. I would think that being caught by a cam instead of falling to one's death would be a very nice demo. There are various ways to minimize the chance of this happening, including extending the placement with an alpine draw and finding places in the crack where cams are less likely to walk. 7). To do this, all sides must have as much contact with the sides of the gap as much as possible to ensure maximum coverage. What is stopping be from using a nut on a horizontal for at least some pro. From an instructor point of view, we have to replace soft items (slings, ropes, extenders) after a maximum of 7 years, or if damaged / showing signs of wear. 121 votes, 33 comments. You place these along the route as you go. In both the above cases the opposing forces of the cam lobes would not be directly opposite one another producing some torquing and mis aligned extra forces. Here with small cams especially the cam may violently move in a fall and some lobes move into an uncammed or under cammed position and then the placement failing. So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. It's an insurance thing. Thoughts?? Cam devices however are not perfect, and rely on the climber to know how to use them properly. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. it's dangerous. I've recently been climbing at a place that has horizontal cracks that are back cut. I love the Totems, but I also love having some double-axle cams. Cams work, as do bolts, nuts, hexes, threaded runners, and pitons. xledb mzlbqd zlyk pdtp lcc bmb pxiurl kmzitk mffbpwf ahtqi
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