Top rope solo petzl reddit. They all share a few common design elements: a spring-loaded toothed cam that lets the rope (or device) move in one direction but not the other, and a high efficiency, sealed bearing steel pulley wheel (aka sheave). I would tie a knot once i was up off the deck, and then again every 20’or so. May 2, 2018 · The setup, the process, and tips for toprope soloing (TR solo). I’m thinking about setting up a Petzl Rescucender as my main device with a backup. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. 1. I know multiple people who have stopped using it for TR solo after the recent incident reports. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. May 12, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Falls closer to anchor with any slack in the system will be more jarring etc than any top rope or lead fall. Saftey considerations: The lever of a gri gri is on the left side of the device therefore the grigri must be on the left side of your tie-in figure 8 knot. For top rope solo I used a Micro Traxion and a Kong Duck on separate lines (yes I fixated both strands it the top from seperate bolts). The Petzl Shunt can detach from a rope. There are hundreds, possibly thousands of resources that take literally a few minutes on google to find. Jul 26, 2002 · The way it's described by Petzl (they make both devices, assume they know what they're talking about), the screwgate goes through the top hole on the ascender, enclosing the rope just above the cam, and directly to the harness. The shunt and ascender were never designed for top rope solo or lead rope solo, one of the best bit of kit I've seen on the market so far that works really well for top rope solo is the Taz Love 2 and 3 as they are rated for progress capture I lurked this page a lot, today I want to share this climb. Not at all okay for rope soloing (as I understand, which means leading pitches solo) Reply reply robxburninator • Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. If you're not planning on The way most folks TR self belay with a mini trax is to hang it on a short sling from their harness. 8mm dynamic beater rope. I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. Often, the solution is to go alone, rehearsing the key pitches by solo toproping. Now OTOH if you were to use a Petzl Basic, there is no slack and a low stretch rope would be fine IMO. Top-rope solo is an easy way to get your climbing fix while maintaining social distancing. ATC XP on I use a croll and an ushba ascender as a back up for TR solo and they feed totally smooth with weight on the lines. The prusik on the other hand will sometimes provide too much friction to let the rope Jun 9, 2015 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Basically a $100 TR solo set up that self feeds, as opposed to an almost $300 set up for a GriGri and microtrax. The main differences between low end and high end harnesses is type of construction and weight. I set up a standard anchor at a two bolt station using a cordalette or slings. Mar 6, 2019 · Edelrid have released their version of the Micro Trax called the "Spoc" progress capture pulley (for those who may be unaware). I will sometimes LRS up an easier route to then traverse into my project, build an anchor and then TRS the project. I climb on 9. I climbed sporadically since 2017 and more seriously since the start of this year. Apr 16, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Which style do you prefer, and why? Reddit threads are easy to find in Google and last forever. Then you have the non-load bearing chest harness to keep the micro trax upright like so. Going to use a standard grigri on my belay loop and a Petzl shunt as a backup on my leg loop (but also pas’d up to my main harness loops). Anchor set up at top as if top roping normally, hanging over edge. One strand has the microtrax with a chest harness made from slings to hold it upright, and the other strand has a cinch, which flows so smoothly you don't even notice. Just like most climbing literature has very limited text dedicated to rope soloing, it is up to the end user to make an educated decision for I've noticed Petzl has posted some rope soloing techniques. Apr 16, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. What are your thoughts on top rope soloing with two micro traxions, with one connected to a quickdraw (with 2 locking carabiners) and one directly attached to the belay loop as a back up? The quickdraw would keep them far enough apart so that they don't bind up. What I have are 2 jumars (left and right handed) and a gri gri 2. Jul 13, 2024 · The Petzl Shunt remains an interesting device for Top-Rope Solo climbing. BD momentum, Petzl Corax or Adjama/Sama, or Mammut Togir 3 are pretty popular at my area for starting harnesses. Noteworthy specs I can find so far are: Micro Trax - 15kn (breaking strength of device, not rope) Spoc - 15kn (breaking strength of device, not rope) Micro Trax - 85 grams Spoc - 60 grams Micro Trax - 91% efficiency Spoc - 92% efficiency Micro Trax - 8mm-11mm Spoc Dec 20, 2017 · Hi all - Reaching out to the community for comments on experience. I'm leaning toward the ball-lock simply because I've never had any before. Most times I'll be able to fix the middle of the rope and have 2 strands to work with. There's a lot of good info spread across MP forums, but figured i'd consolidate and put together an Instructable for anyone else interested in maki… Hey fellow climbers! I'm in the midst of deciding between two lightweight progress capture devices: the Petzl Nano Traxion and the Edelrid Spoc. Dec 3, 2021 · Yes, I know that Petzl has never authorized the Shunt for use in top-rope soloing. For top rope solo I used a Micro Traxion and a Kong Duck on separate lines (yes I fixated both strands it the top from What are two different non-toothed devices (that do not require managing slack) that can be used to top rope solo. Or use the atc and back up the rap with a prusik on the single rope. I often opt to top rope solo both when working out moves on a project but more commonly on easier routes for some climbing milage. I run top rope solo with a single 11mm static line and two micro traxions, one raised on chest slings. Since Petzls website recommends 2 different devices when on self belay, the conventional wisdom is jumar as the primary and gri gri secondary Top Rope Solo Setup for Climbing: I've tried many different Top Rope Solo configurations, but this is by far the best for me right now. I’d hang a light weight on the rope to feed it through. I think I have a Micro Traction and a Camp Lift ascender. I can't get hands free feeding with any device (that I own) that allows descending. I would not wear this one for multi. And yes we are scared of falling. TR solo on one strand and tie knots, rap down double rope and untie your knots. The Petzl Shunt is from what I gather not recommened at all for TRS anymore for several reasons. Dec 8, 2012 · I recently picked up a Petzl Microtraxion to use for hauling light loads, and have also used it several times for top rope soloing [I walked to the top of a crag, fixed a line off the anchor, walked back down, then climbing the route from the bottom with the fixed line running through the Microtraxion to capture my progress]. Underneath you have the standard ascender, it's older but does the trick. I would wear this one for multi pitches. Question for those who use ascenders Just picked up a pair of older Petzl Ascensions and just wanted to hear everyone’s experience on how they affect ropes. I'm reaching out to this knowledgeable community to get some real-world feedback on these two Petzl HERA Attaches. Top Rope Soloing (TRS). (Nope, you won’t learn that on Alpinesavvy, Google is your amigo. Petzl wrote a guide on how to do it right. I’ve heard that toothed devices such as a micro traxion can damage the sheath on a rope or even cut a rope. But if you're doing normal top rope climbing, your belayer has a belay device, and that's it, no backup. The eddy feeds itself medium well after a bit . Rope soloing is really dangerous because there is no second guessing or second set of eyes on your system. Rope soloing is for people with a cool head, who like the technical fuckery, who don't get agitated when they realize their rope is caught on something, are good at downclimbing, and have a high risk tolerance. Simple locker for the main anchor (quicker and ok enough on eye-bolts), no backup anchor but a rebelay with a clove hitch on the Feb 12, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I have the microtraxion and rollnlock, both of which I'v used for TR solo, simuling, crev rescue. It Petzl have some good documentation on this. You can rig it so it feeds hands free. Solid anchor on two trees, simple climb, thus allowing me to just drag in the slack along the way, in essence reversing the rapell down. TR Solo with only GriGri2? Hi all, I just got familiar with the idea of top rope soloing which seems like something I'd like to do over the summer as nobody in my family climbs. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Here's my set-up, if you have top-rope soloed a lot feel free to suggest ways to make it easier or safer. I am using a 9. I’m looking to use them on top rope soloing since Petzl recommends them ish, but also figured they’d be helpful to get some of my nonclimber friends unstuck easier than I could without. Just browsing this post there were multiple recommendations that I know have broken or failed in catastrophic ways on a more than normal May 14, 2008 · FWIW, if I were using an ASAP to TR solo, I think I'd be more likely to put a shock absorber at the top of the rope (ie: rigging rope brings anchors back to a single point, Absorbica or whatever attached there, top rope attached to that) and clip the ASAP straight into the belay loop on my harness. Leaving easy to find instructions on Reddit will result in someone killing themselves as the vast majority of newbies lack partners so TRS seems like an easy solution to climbing Apr 4, 2025 · We tested 13 climbing ropes from Sterling, Petzl, Edelrid, Mammut, and others to find the best options for you. If you can belay on a Grigri, you can belay on an ATC. Is this really bad? What setup should I go for? Grigri top rope solo Hey r/climbing, I'm trying to practice a route that I want to free solo (nothing crazy but long) and I'm considering buying a grigri so that I could setup a top rope and belay myself for practice. They all pretty much do the same thing Hi climbers, I’m planning on top rope soloing a 50m single pitch, anchor at the top, throw my 70m rope down, rap, and then climb back up. When hung upside down from your chest harness it feeds surprisingly well, but engages almost instantly in a fall. For that reason alone I would not recommend a static rope. I go rope soloing on a regular basis, both to session hard moves and to get a few vertical meters to gain endurance. I used to top rope solo with a Petzl Shunt. . Am I going to die? Any advice very welcome! The Grigri is a more versatile device. I use a bunny ear 8 or a BHK tied in the middle of my rope at the anchor with a water jug and back pack tied to my rope at the base to weight it. Just did my first top rope solo, would love to get some feedback on the system I used. But I had a lunch, crampons, double rack, my PAS and couple random stuff for top rope solo and extra clothes because the of shoulder season. The device does not fully enclose rope on all sides leaving the possibility of a rope slipping out. How? We followed on toprope solo. Not sure about the nano though. It's not advisable if you're inexperienced. This gear below is what you'd need to do his favorite system. I played with the device quite a bit and came up with Apr 23, 2023 · In reply to fmck: There are a few really good purpose built devices on the market that don't have the flaws and failure modes the old petzl kit has. I personally use a dynamic rope but some people say that static is better. Whenever I read threads about top rope solo, everyone agrees on using one device to self-belay, and some kind of backup in case your belay device malfunctions. Last week-end, I went trad climbing with a 40l pack. I climb a lot with people who are already experienced with regular grigri. After some consideration I went for a grigri with chest harness (to keep it oriented right) as a main device and a Petzl ASAP as backup for the lead solos. But I do like the mechanism of it. I'm building my top rope solo setup. TR soloing is a great way to get in quick sessions, put in more laps, keeping warm on cold days, or when you're following a pitch and then hauling up a backpack. If rope has chance of abrading over edges you can setup intermediate anchor below that feature using a clove hitch to a draw before that feature with rope above loose/will be unweighed untill unclipping the clove. My current setup is a trango cinch in the belay loop and a prusik on top of it as backup. Hi! I’ve been looking into TRS for a while would like to make it as safe as possible. I currently have a Petzl Minitraxion, and am thinking of getting the Wild Country Ropeman2 as the back up, since it's less than half the cost and functions similarly. That’s a small keeper cord you see on the traxion. However, since it is not being made anymore I am looking at the C. This means there's always slack. Money is pretty tight so I don't want to buy additional gear if I can get away with what I have. ) Haul packs or lighter haul bags, with the Traxion on the anchor. I'm looking to buy my first belay device. 8 rope, and I'm looking into getting into top belaying and some more multi pitch. Feb 3, 2022 · With the recent influx of climbing media, jargon like 'soloing' is spilling out into the general public. Top rope, lead, multi pitch, rope ascension, single-line raps; the device does a lot. Nevertheless, fixed-rope solo climbing is an option that un number of climbers have taken, experimenting with a variety of technical solutions. I will sometimes be climbing with less experienced people. I understand the theory of why you double the ropes but if that held any water we would always climb with two ropes. I've seen the Edelrid Pinch and love the fact that you can clip it directly to the belay loop. That way if you make a mistake loading your duck, you won't make the same mistake on the other device. Plus it comes in purple! Looking for a mechanical device to aid in ascending two strands of a fixed rope, for example to clean an unreachable top rope. Or use a grigri and rap down the other strand. May 11, 2015 · My top rope solo climbing system - smooth as butter - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Top Rope Soloing is the simplest form of rope soloing. Micro Traxion as primary brake, on belay loop and then attached to a couple of slings crossed over chest to hold it upright. There are certain specific circumstances under which your gear might not operate like you expect it to, for example. I'm wondering if you could use a single rope, find the midpoint and tie two figure eights on a bight. theoretically, there are situations where the Petzl Rad line and toothed prussiks could be a viable safety system used in a relatively safe manner that is outside the manufacturers stated uses for the equipment. This form of soloing predominantly shines on single pitch climbing but can be used if there's a fixed line on a multipitch. One of the most popular applications for this device. (price does not matter in this discussion) I'm mainly concerned about the cam engaging too often when lowering or due to rope drag which could get frustrating. Backup can be a second rope, knots, a second device, etc. Jan 12, 2022 · Climbers have been using the Petzl Shunt for toprope-soloing since the 1980s, but two recent accidents highlight the need to reconsider this practice. I have lots of belay experience with regular grigri's and ATC's but I want to get my own grigri. You will also bring a gri-gri to descend & a sling or PAS to make yourself safe at the top while you change over from the ascending gear to the gri-gri. I used two strands of rope by knotting the rope at the anchor. We include many break tests so we don't have to wonder when a micro traxion vs a Petzl also has good stuff. And I had a blast! After some consideration I went for a grigri with chest harness (to keep it oriented right) as a main device and a Petzl ASAP as backup for the lead solos. If you asked the manufacturer they would say absolutely not due to obvious liability, however if you understand the risks then you can make your own decision. PINCH Basic Functions | EDELRID A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. Aug 25, 2022 · I free climbed one of the world's hardest alpine routes despite carrying the weight of a multi-day pack. That goes straight into the belay loop. Fix the middle of your rope. I was thinking I should be able to do it on an 8mm rope. edit: Also you have an ascender but not a grigri? So in my experience somthing like a petzl rescuecender or another cammed ascender (the s-tech duck). I really liked the Grigri for top roping. You can make one with a static rope (yes, static), sling, necklace lanyard, and two progess-capture devices. Petzl Ascension on other rope, clipped to bottom tie in point. The best and simplist method for top rope self belay BY FAR is to tie in on one end of the top rope and thread the other end through a grigri. The microtrax also has a ball-bearing pulley, which I assume increases the pulley efficiency relative to the RollNLock (don't have numbers on that). My personal setup for TR solo isa microtraxion with a kong duck as the backup. I’m looking to it's called theoretical capability. I use the shock cord around my neck to keep my first device up towards my chest and away from my secondary. Feedback on what stupid crap I did appreciated! This. The following characteristics are essential for any self-belay system: Super smooth top-rope soloing combo: Petzl Micro Traxion along with the Wild Country Ropeman 2 on an old 9. Two climbers recently had accidents when top rope solo climbing using the Petzl Shunt without backups. I just had my first solo top rope send, using a basic rapell setup with a normal brake and prusik, on my dynamic rope. There are many different devices on the market and ALL of them have pro's and con's. P. Goblin since it uses the same system as the USHBA and is being currently made. Petzl advises against it and now this new failure mode I know there are some convenient features of the Shunt compared to other devices, but it doesn't seem worth it considering the increased risk. Brent Barghahn from Avant Climbing shows us his favorite Top Rope Solo systems and why he chose the devices he did. I've been using these techniques and I love the freedom it gives m The Petzl GriGri+, in top rope mode, is our preferred device. That said, if you're going to do it then top rope solo is safer Jul 29, 2024 · Petzl's new Neox is a sleek assisted-braking belay device. M. 8 dynamic rope with a jumar as primary and microtraxion (backup) on a single 143 votes, 17 comments. Tie your rope off at the top, rap, and TR solo the pitch. Being that it is strong enough for glacier gravel it should be safe enough for top roping. Peronally, I use a combination of grigri and petzl asap for lead rope solo, and either a jumar and microtraxion or a jumar and grigri for top rope solo. The physicality is identical (for top rope belaying. Petzl has some fantastic guides and Gerke Hoekstra is very experienced in lead rope solo climbing and tope rope solo climbing. I also don't waste time teaching people to belay on an ATC. I know it is not the thing any more, but it was a recommended use at the time. Think about how you could build in redundancy (at your anchor, with your rope, with the way (s) you’re connected to the rope). The Petzl instructions for TR solo (Google them) say to use two different devices. Also, are you proficient in using prusiks or do you own an ascender? It helps to draw out your system and think about where you can build in redundancy and what you’d do in the event This is my setup for a Top-Rope Solo. There may be "unknown unknowns"; risks that you fail to predict because you don't have the experience required to predict them. I must say that it was a bit scary at first. The rope and helmet were outside. There are lots of ways to set this up and all of them are more dangerous than climbing with a buddy. Double Figure 8 on bight in the middle of rope so gives two independent strands, weighted at the bottom by tying gear to them. E. May 2, 2024 · Petzl makes a nice family of pulleys with the surname “Traxion”. Grigri upside down for better feeding. The former still having the weakness that is panic grabbing during a fall and disengaging the cam Jan 20, 2014 · When Tommy Caldwell or Mayan Smith-Gobat work a free climb high on El Capitan, the crux may be finding a belayer willing to put in days of duty in an isolated and exposed location. I think a problem is that the teeth can mar the rope a little, and it could theoretically get stuck in the open position as you're climbing, but that's why you have a backup, right? After lots of use i've had zero rope-marring and the thing has never gotten close to getting stuck open, so After much reading, watching videos and practicing at home, I had my first rope solo session today. a dynamic rope gives you all the properties that the shock pack should give you. The safest and most cost efficient way to rope solo is to learn as much as possible about how things work, how they break, and how to save yourself when things go wrong/you fuck up. But that's just part of the game. Check out the full top rope solo episode here! This is how I have top roped solo for many years using the Petzl Shunt. I've been looking into tope rope soloing and comparing the different set ups commonly used. Currently I can only belay top rope, but I will take a lead course in a few weeks. Look at Petzl's documentation for details on top rope solo. If you have to ask reddit of all places how to lead rope solo, then you shouldn't be doing it. Does anyone with experienc Excellent for solo TR'ing. I’d rather be safe then sorry. To big Reply reply BrightFocus • You are over complicating this. How does it stack up to the Grigri? We put it to the test. The home of Climbing on reddit. It’s important to pay attention to the rope diameter and to remember that although it can hold two ropes, if one is cut, the Shunt might not grip the second rope, causing it to slip. 2 mm, Micro Traxion for the cache loop. System: Unmodded Grigri 2019, Petzl Volta 9. Even/especially on easy terrain, do not underestimate how easy it is to end up knocking a rock loose on to yourself, pinching your hand underneath the rope, stirring up a nest of hornets, getting a sling or your shirt stuck in the device, getting an ascender stuck up against a knot, getting a rope stuck, or misjudging a sharp edge and messing Jun 23, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. WARNING! Don’t fo For context, I’ve been multipitch trad climbing for about 14 years with a big wall under my belt, and strong comfort on vertical terrain. Went for my first top rope self-belay at Great Falls VA yesterday. Petzl has not developed a device for this activity, but certain ascenders may be used for it by experts. ) I am thinking about starting to top rope soloing on one of my projects, and I see so many opinions on the best way to do this. The 2 biggest things to keep in mind are that thin ropes cut more easily on edges, and half/twin ropes stretch much more, which can result in decking on a Ball, screw or triact-lock? About to order some Petzl AM'D locking biners for general purpose use. I find that when engaging the progress capture, the RollNLock occasionally doesn't "bite" the rope first try. It's a very effective way to work the moves on your project for as long as you want without having to drag a belayer along. Most of the package deal harness are great and will love you long time. Two micro traxions, shunt, gri gri (must be annoying to always tighten the rope). I would be super heartbroken if this happened to my buddy who swears on using a Shunt for TR Solo. Whether you’re an active first ascensionist or just want to do some laps after work without a partner, solo toproping is a handy One more vote for a TR solo setup. I'll be at Devil's Lake which, if my research is correct, has many top rope accessible climbs. Most likely I won't buy a (semi-)static rope, so I will just use my dynamic one. Nov 7, 2022 · Improvised rope ascending system, combine with a friction hitch or micro ascender like a Petzl Tibloc to go up a fixed rope. I’d like to start exploring more remote alpine rock environments, and I’m looking to build out a kit specifically for days where I am scrambling/soloing 4th and/or easy 5th class terrain, and possibly have a few rappels on the descent. Brent from Avant Climbing joined us to show us what he uses to climb hard but stay redundant. Will either the grigri+ or neox be better for top rope lowering my 50lb kids who I often have to manually feed the rope to get them back down? Currently have a Jul and a grigri2. Both have been on the market for a while and have similar applications in crevasse rescue, hauling, TR ascent, and as part of a system for self-rescue. A. Looking around the internet the I found the S-Tec Duck R and S-Tec ENForcer. Does anyone have experience with the Pinch? How does it feel compared to the Grigri? Is it good for lead? Thanks! Aug 21, 2020 · Rope solo climbing - this is how it works: Equipment list, information on assembly and tips for self-belaying when top rope climbing. The cinch proved to be very reliable, the rope never slipped enough to make the prusik grab the rope. We discuss rope soloing here. If I tie myself in and tie backup knots would this be a safe enough setup? Dave Macleod took his TR Solo tutorial down. I'm slightly leaning towards the Reverso now, but I like u/maxxattk9 's advice with flipping a coin. I’ll admit I’ve used a single half rope to simul in easy terrain a bunch. Top rope solo gear guide There are lots of different systems for top rope soloing. Nice shape, I only use that type of biner for rope stuff so you don't accidentally mess your rope up with bolt-end biners, and they donate $1 from buying the biner to ovarian cancer research. , the Petzl attaché has a pear shape -- which end should face my harness and why? Originally I was looking for an USHBA basic ascender, which seems to be the best "non-teethed" device on the market for use as a top-rope solo device. Honestly just try on a bunch at your gym/shop and pick the one you'll be most happy with. But also search more “top rope solo” on here and dig a little deeper. Here's a pic of my setup, Similar to the petzl setup, micro trax extended with a sling with alpine butterfly girthed through the tie in loops. The gap might seem small but even large ropes can squeeze through small gaps under load. A Petzl shunt is not safe for toprope solo. I use a micro traxion for solo toprope ice climbing and it works great. Petzl does not reccomend using their devices for top rope solo but still recognizes people do it anyway and has good information on the safest methods. Attached to you with a short (80cm or so) dynamic rope lanyard should be want you want. Nevertheless, it has been used for that purpose by many people for a long time.
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