Alpinesavvy rappel. Here are a few. Here's a low cost DIY version, using the cleverly designed Kong Slyde. If the anchor is truly marginal, the first person down can place gear and clip one strand of the rope to it. Here’s an elegant way to tie it with a double loop bowline. Jul 20, 2021 · There are a number of mountain guides and schools who give weekly free advice on how to rappel or rig a trad/sport anchor. However, there are some nuances to doing it correctly, efficiently, and with reduced risk. Explore expert tips, NorthWest climbing guides, and mountaineering resources to improve your outdoor skills and trip planning. This gives pretty much all the benefits of a classic simul rappel with greatly reduced risk. Sep 22, 2024 · Rappel slowly and smoothly, not like some Special Forces cowboy. Learn all about it here. It works See more than 600 tips for anchors, belay, rappel, wilderness skills, mountaineering, snow & rock climbing, big wall, DIY gear making, first aid, and more. The pre-rigged (aka “stacked”) rappel, can improve speed and reduce risk in certain conditions. Tethers are not for everyone, but many climbers find their instant adjustability to be handy. Below are five accounts that you should follow if you’re looking to improve those technical gear skills. Apparently, when the rope is loaded from below, occasional device failure can happen for the person above. (In the Portland Oregon area, the rappel off of Rooster Rock in the Columbia River Gorge has a notorious knot-eating crack at the top, and is a great place to use this technique. There’’s no need to pull up the strand that's fallen down, tie a stopper knot in it, and re-throw it - a big time saver. Some of the more specialized ones can be quite expensive. Apr 24, 2023 · It's common to find a mess of cord and webbing at some alpine rappel anchors. Jan 10, 2019 · With 3 (or more) people, a pre-rigged rappel lets two people rappel at one time, each on a single fixed strand. Click the “Get Skilled” menu link to get started. Here are several of them, in a great little diagram from the clever Petzl web gnomes. This really comes into play on multi pitch double rope rappels. The traditional method of each climber using a tether/PAS to connect to the anchor, each person untying from their respective ends of the rope, threading the anchor, tossing each rope strand, and then each person rigging for a rappel separately, involves a LOT of steps and (usually Nov 29, 2018 · Scenario: You’re the last person rappelling on two ropes tied together, and you’re worried about the knot getting stuck on a ledge or crack near the anchor. Aug 31, 2023 · Pre-rigged rappel for an awkward rap station . Aug 9, 2019 · Need to move your team from a safe spot out to an exposed rappel station? From the crafty rope trick experts at Petzl, here’s one way to do it. ) Jan 8, 2024 · Continuing our dissection of ski mountaineering rappel systems, we explore various options for rappel extensions/tethers and third hands. This gives you a strong connection, double loop redundancy, and it's easy to untie when you're done. Good news: there are some easy ways to eliminate this problem. However, challenging terrain and conditions may require some specialized techniques. May 17, 2024 · Using a skinny pull cord, in combination with a regular climbing rope, allows full length rappels with reduced gear and pack weight. Feb 15, 2024 · On multipitch rappels, you can save a surprising amount of time by using a few simple time-saving techniques. ) Try this #CraftyRopeTrick to move the knot past the Oct 1, 2020 · Using a rappel extension is a good idea for a lot of reasons. Dec 12, 2023 · The always terrific Petzl website has a specific caution against a pre-rigged rappel with a Grigri on top. (Learned this one from IFMGA Guide Mark Smiley and mtnsense. com. Do yourself and everybody else a favor: cut away everything that's questionable and add some new material of your own to make an anchor that's more reliable and easier for others to inspect. . Watch the video for a scary mom Aug 22, 2022 · When you need to rappel the same route you just climbed, the transition at the top can often be a big time suck. Apr 24, 2025 · In most rappels, getting the rope down is pretty straightforward: give each strand a toss and hope for the best. There’s another application - when you're rappelling into unfamiliar terrain with the location of the next anchors uncertain or nonexistent. . Learn essential rappelling skills with our expert guides, tips, and tutorials for rock climbing, backcountry, and mountaineering safety. Mar 26, 2020 · A belayed rappel is something many climbers think might be helpful only with a nervous beginner who needs the extra reassurance of a belay, or maybe an injured partner. ndsxz eppu yuap smjqm hujyoe rhwbqma zhws szshd xceors sepntm
26th Apr 2024