Offset nuts climbing reddit. I asked about falls, placements, and how it was stored.

Offset nuts climbing reddit. (and yeah, they are slightly harder to place correctly). Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. However, I'm a broke high schooler, so I can't really afford cams, and I don't want to get too invested in it. Good luck! Weekend Whipper: Two Nuts Rip, a Third Unclips. TL;DR: niche piece & couldn't After about 5 more feet of climbing, I placed a small offset nut. I’ve been told to avoid hexes, but if you feel strongly, I’d love to hear why. From there it's going to depends on what and where you are climbing. I am curious whether basalt climbers like offset or standard nuts more for the rock type. I'd hop on Mountain Project, a local Facebook climbing group, or pay a visit a local gear shop and ask what a good starter rack is for where you will be climbing the most. I find alpine quickdraws really useful. 1 cam what model do you recommend? It depends on where you live. Would I be better served by doubling up my C4's or buying a set of Master Cam's for climbing in the Valley? FYI DMM offset nuts are 20% off on backcountrgear. They sometimes become a favourite piece. 1 cam next? brassies? offset nuts? Ball nuts? If I do go with the . I built a master list of climbing skills for teaching friends, from single pitch sport climbing, to leading ski trips in complex avalanche terrain and first aid. If you If you have some basic questions on trad climbing it would be a good idea to run through the wiki linked here first. I am thinking of buying some trad gear online. I asked about falls, placements, and how it was stored. 8mm spans via Trango). Has anyone tried both the DMM Alloy Offsets and the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks? I'm wondering how they compare. Ive been climbing a couple of years, mostly sport and bouldering, but sometimes trad with buddies. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. Generally when a guidebook says "a single rack" that is what they mean. I've read lots of posts of people raving about the Alloy Offsets, but very little user information about Superlight Offset Rocks. Here's what you need to know. 4: Gear, Ive got doubles between 0. I currently have a set of C4's, nuts, and a few hex's. And ive got one #4 and one black alien. awesome thank you, any advice for removing the corrosion? Recomend staying away from the WD40 to prevent cross contamination of your soft gear. However I am curious, and also building my own confidence for taking falls. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. And I really love them nuts. I like the CTs, but they aren't very versatile and their sizes don't overlap (e. The feeling you get when an offset sits perfectly- it's so satisfying. This Im not sure where you are climbing that you need so many cams starting out, but a beginner surely just needs some nuts, hexes, and offsets (in addition to the quickdraws, nut key, etc) to get through all the beginner stuff. In addition to the gear you use in an indoor wall or at a sport crag, you'll need some more specialist kit to climb a trad route. Any ball nut tips? It’s the trango number 3 gold one I often buy a single size of pro to test out. They can be quite difficult to remove. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. I Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Buying used gear can be a great way to save money. Where do you plan on climbing? This greatly affects your rack. I'd recommend saving your money as the use will be limited. Maybe its just the rock I climb on (granite in washington). If you want two racks of nuts? Do it. Gates IN. 6. I carry offset nuts far more Offsets seemed to be easier to place for me. I always rack at least two. Outside of offset nuts, diversifying your cams may help. Nov 23, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. A full set of nuts and offset nuts. This article explains all. 75 (doubles) left front. They can be more difficult to clean though. 10s, you should probably get a full double rack of . After that trip I bought a set of DMM Offset nuts and when I returned for some more climbing it was magical. The alloy ones don't go 1 to 10 like wallnuts and rocks, the smallest alloy Offset is at a guess about the size of a #5 rock or wallnut. I would appreciate hearing personal experiences and 2 sets Ball Nuts #1 blue and #2 red (My favorite piece of gear, since you asked) 1-2 Complete sets of Brass Offset Stoppers 2 Complete sets of Offset Wild Country Superlight Rocks 16 Matching DMM Alpha Sport Draws or Petzl Spirit or The Edelrid Bulletproof in 17cm or longer length 16 Matching Camp Nano 22 or Petzl ange S Alpine Draws. Honourable mentions to the smaller blue offset, and the red six. 5-3 on c4's and a set of nuts too, that's a good starter rack. If you're looking for being able to use a wide variety of sizes these are the ones you want (especially if price isn't an issue). A crowd sourced choice will give you a nice averaged answer. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. There are plenty of great placements for normal nuts on all the routes I climb. Trying to master my gear placement though. The best non-offset nuts I've used are the Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts. The fixed stem cams probably solid but require better attention to use. What should I look out for or ask? What percentage of the original price should I look to buy gear at? UPDATE: Thank you for the advice! I bought gently used sets of Black Diamond offset nuts and DMM peenuts from somebody who tried trad a couple times last year and decided it wasn't for them. Different brands have slightly different characteristics but theyre all just lumps of metal on wire. Every beginner rack needs some things--giant hexes, ancient ball nuts, stupidly small offset micro-stoppers, mega big bros--that you'll never use but will give us an opportunity to make snarky comments. Budget about 1000 usd. Secondly: If for example BD stoppers are being placed everywhere, over time, the placements will have been prepped and worn to Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “ brassy ” or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. Even climbing on Little Cottonwood Granite with weird flares and pin scars, one of my Metolius cams or an offset cam/nut fit the same or better than an equivalent Totem. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. Petzl Attache 3D with BD ATC Guide Alpine, really light Elderid lockers. My immediate group of climbing partners obsess over offset nuts. Something like offset or more curved nuts could be useful. So here's the situation. Double sets of nuts are useful if they are different shapes. Alpha Trad draws, Oz on my cams. Other places like the Utah desert almost have no nut placements because the cracks tend to be perfectly parallel. The gear was already getting harder to place at this point, the nut passed a few tugs and looked decent, so again, I moved on and kept climbing. What do you guys think? Depends where you'll be climbing. Edit: Also can't deny I enjoy placing an old machine nut slung on cord, occasionally. 1 is, I wonder about the advice, if I should even bother getting it for free climbing or skip to a ball nut set or passive pro only in the little sizes. I myself want to add a set of non offset small stoppers to round out my rack. Wich is the best cheap online sites (I can have it picked up in US). Unless you're climbing really short routes, pooling gear with a friend or climbing mixed routes a few cams and a single set of nuts isn't enough to safely protect most climbs. 5-3 right front. Has anyone had a chance to try out the new BD Offset Stoppers? How do they compare to the DMM ones. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. While they are high-grade nuts and have many positive features, they don’t quite measure up to the DMM Wallnut and Offset. Nuts, offset nuts, C4 0. " includes gear to build an anchor and gear to attach oneself to a (bolted) anchor to set up a rappel if necessary. Pro depends on the route, BD Ultralights, offset nuts, tri-cams, BD screws 10 to 16cm, 1x22cm ultralight for belays and threads. Thoughts?? For your first set of nuts , you should buy whatever is the most popular with experienced climbers at your local crag. I do use offset nuts though and they've saved me a few times but aren't required. We used each while ascending wind-blown alpine 18K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I use them all the time now on free climbs anywhere that isn't perfectly parallel cracks they seem to fit. BD stoppers and ABC huevos are pretty similar in shape. . I want to get some gear so I have something to contribute, as well as open up my horizons to more routes other than sport. I had the bd's first and they are pretty versatile (twist them if you want a taper) and hold up to use/falls pretty well. You get to double up on the middle sizes, they’re not as aggressively offset so they still work well in normal placements, and they’re significantly lighter. Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. I need some recommendation on what to buy an where to buy. Draws, alpine draws, runners and double runners split left and right side in that order. i personally have the DMM offsets and the wildcountry offset rocks. Well then a set of offset nuts and cams from 0. Generally I use standard cams (some combination of C3s, C4s & Mastercams) but use offset cams on certain routes in certain areas like Yosemite, Index & JTree. Good luck! Good nut for columnar basalt? I have been looking into buying a set of nuts to use as supplimental protection on sport routes which tend to be quite run out (depending on grade) where I am. You’ve got a good start though!😊 Reply reply WeirdoClimbing • Ball Nuts Not a common piece of gear, ball nuts consist of two parts: a grooved chock (similar to a nut), and a sliding wedge that retracts via a trigger. I'd recommend some Offset nuts (e. Plus long runners to extend gear. DMM offsets are popular, though I prefer a the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks paired with the Superlight half nuts (non-offset) sets. DMM nuts can also be harder to clean for this reason. Starter rack is complete! Any tips for a new trad climber? Would love to hear all sorts of experiences and advice! Because they theoretically are rated for higher loads than many other cams of the same sizes and everyone has loved they are offset nuts. For me, a basic rack is a set of nuts and cams . Anybody know why DMM and BD offset nuts stop at BD #11 or equivalent? I'd totally be down with a #12 and #13 offset nut. Side tangent: I think rating 1-10 is pointless Gear falls into three categories: body weight only, likely to hold, will hold; Basically, evaluating past, “do I need to back this piece up?” saps mental energy and Arno Ilgner So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. Very overwhelmed on where to start. They're simply a better option than normal nuts for anything flaring or heavily pebbled/crystalized. These will give you a good range of sizes. If it helps I carry a set of DMM Wallnuts (similar to you bd stoppers) and a set of DMM alloy offsets and plan to add a set of peanuts to this. . 4 and 3. :P Looking for some advice for the local trad rack for Ontario limestone single pitch climbing. i place an offset nut 4 times for every regular nut, and feel like i could skip the regular nuts altogether and rarely miss them. Would eventually like to try some climbs at Bon Echo as well. Good price point, reliable, and all your future partners will be familiar with them. the WC dont seem to fit very often, and at least in pictures the trango or BD look closer to the DMM. The super light offset especially that thing fits anyway Get some nuts and that will probably carry you into plenty of 5. Also another reason why DMM offset nuts and peenuts - I can’t even remember the last time I racked up with a regular nut set I love the Z4s a ton, especially in 0. Reply reply PulpFiction849 • These are not their famous offset nuts. Always seems to go in on the most engaging fun pitches. 5 to 2 or 3. I often see gear placements rip out in YouTube videos of people falling. Offset Cams Good nut for columnar basalt? I have been looking into buying a set of nuts to use as supplimental protection on sport routes which tend to be quite run out (depending on grade) where I am. Of everything. There are always people selling id also get either the trango or BD offset nuts. Some offset nuts maybe? I use mine loads but I’m climbing a bit harder than you. redundant because its a nut and a quickdraw (attached to the nut). I also use them to supplement my rack if a particular route has a LOT of one size and I need extras, or the placements aren't quite perfect. The Hugh Banner offsets strongly resemble DMM's HB Alloy Offset Nuts just without the colored anodizing on the heads. climbing. com Sep 9, 2010 · In reply to alan1234: To get a full size range with Offsets you would need the brass ones as well as the alloy ones. Climber Decks. For free climbing I have a set of bd micro nuts (the original non offset ones) and a partial set of metolius astro nuts. Additionally they will match the DMM offsets which everyone also swears by (BD now makes offset nuts, never tried em tho). From a perspective of WA State climbing, you should be good with what you have at the moment. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. 5, 0. 4 to 3. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. The "extra slings, carabiners, etc. Should I slim down the rack for these routes? Should I be worried about not having any 5s or 6s? Am I gonna die if I don't have four #1s ;) Thanks to the community for any feedback! Those offset nuts are very handy. also you need moar. Jun 19, 2015 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I haven't heard people say much praise of ball nuts other than that's the only thing that would fit; they didn't feel great climbing above it, and when fallen on you are gonna have a hard time removing it. As sorta mentioned nuts and stoppers are the same thing. Once you've got a double set down it's time to start investing in offsets, micros and offset micros. Weighing out your comfort level to how much actual weight you want to carry. Is it worth picking up a second set of nuts, either DMM offsets, BD or others. Winners have been wild country rockcentric 3 (yellow), wild country superlight offset 6 (red), and a black diamond micro stopper. Just regular nuts. Offwidth climbing is the best climbing. Small cams and C4 0. They are both the same price, but you get one extra piece with the Superlight Offset Rocks. Are they really that good? Is this obsession just my immediate environment or is it because offset nuts are really that great? Granite cracks love Dmm offsets. Unless you know it is the perfect piece, just ask how many free climbers actually use a whole rack of these. These tiny pieces of passive protection revolutionized what is possible with traditionally placed gear when they were first released. offset nuts however are incredible for free climbing. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. DMM offsets are great nuts but there's only 5 of them, so if you buy a set of regular nuts (DMM wallnuts are again awesome, but most brands of nuts are also good to great) you'll have 10 more pieces. I could see having a double set of nuts giving you more choices for building multi pitch anchor or bailing of a route. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. Always bomber and covers the equalization issue by only having one direction of pull. But I don’t want to carry two racks of nuts, so I choose offset. Aug 8, 2022 · With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. Skip the BD stoppers, also ‘meh’. DMM Offset nuts) to supplement what you currently have, but they aren't necessary. I think to begin you can get away with as little as that but adding the offset nuts makes things nicer. 5 and 0. 10 trad climbing as well as alpine stuff. I consider offset cams a specialty piece and rarely carry them. Bought offsets cams for the gunks, sold those offsets to someone who doesn't climb at the gunks. Two reasons. But for micronuts you probably don't want, or can't use, a cam, and a finicky offset micronut isn't confidence inspiring. They tend to be used more by aid climbers than free climbers, and work in very small placements. 12 votes, 48 comments. So my question is, can you climb trad with only nuts and Offset nuts just help you find those nut placements were you go "oh my lord I can't believe I can get gear here". Also a set of offset nuts including RPs (DMM brass nuts). sometimes -say- #6 it's too small, but #7 is too big). 75. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. While I've never used ball nuts myself, they may be worthwhile to use in place of your smallest nuts on routes that are tiny runout cracks as they provide a bit more protection (7kN compared to 2kN for 3. 5 to 2 is a great supplement to a friends rack. In this video, we look at the benefits of offset nuts, and the pros and cons of softer metals used in some sets. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. Also you’re gonna want way more alpine draws if you’re doing multi pitch, especially if routes wander. Even now, after several updates and a lot more fierce competition, they remain one of the very best nuts for the The best shape of nut to use depends on where you climb, you style of climbing and just personal preference so I wouldn't take too much advice blindly from the internet. I respect that dmm offsets are probably better but a literal machine nut on string will make bomber gear on solid California granite in exfoliation regions where you get a lot of segmented cracks with good tapers too them. What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. Should I be spending on a . 2 through 5 and singles of 0 through #8. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango The order of preference on thin gear is some small nuts (and offset nuts), and then small cams, and then ball nuts. Reply reply Sloppo_Toppo • This is it Reply reply haskie69 • I’d whip on that Reply reply More repliesMore repliesMore replies Mandarkar • Nice grogri Reply reply Gold-Log-2011 • Potentially from space Reply reply r/climbing I have a set of climbing technology nuts (4-10), made and readily available in Italy (where I am), but I think I need some more. If you’re climbing 5. Jul 24, 2025 · They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. Nut-wise, I get more placements out of my offsets than my regular large nuts, but I know it depends on the area. As small as a . Farther north, where the major geologic process is Fair assessment on it being shallower than ideal, but it’s what the rock gave me. Offset nuts are nice but you can get by quite well without them in most places (I still don't own a set). I’ve currently got a single set of DMM Wallnuts and a single set of BD C4s. Most people start with a 1-11 set from a major manufacturer (DMM, BD, WC) then add another 1-8 set from another manufacturer. com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A andrew314159 • Feb 2, 2024 · Our Runner Ups for the Best Climbing Nuts for Trad Climbing While these nuts didn’t quite make the cut into the favorite’s position, they are still recommended by many trad climbers as well as having positive reviews from many experts. I am just back from climbing trip in Dolomites where I placed a red DMM offset which became stuck (according to my partner who couldn't get it out). They work fantastically well with climbing in Leavenworth :) buying a whole rack of offsets is pretty ludicrous for free climbing. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. Is this true in NC?. The same one which kept me off the ground as a single piece of protection 20+ feet above the ground. it's dangerous. Anchor lockers, belay and bail gear behind that and/or on the haul loop as needed. What do i need incams, nuts, carabines, slings and so on. 7). Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. Some places like Yosemite really love offset nuts and smaller cam like a black totem. 5 and 5. On aid climbs and big walls, offset nuts are an indispensable tool that turn otherwise unprotectable seams or incipient cracks into a reasonable climb. Your first set of nuts should be versatile in the area you'll be climbing. If you’re the only one with the gear, you’ll quickly find that you want two of each size cam from 0. Keeps the design sleek, would recommend DMM offset nuts, or micro brassies for style points Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome [1]. If you keep climbing you will eventually want smaller cams but wallnuts plus the 3 cams plus offsets is more than adequate and will do nicely at first The groove down the centre of the DMM nuts can be placed around irregularities in the placement which will help hold it in place. The photo was to demonstrate why I climb with offsets instead of traditional nuts. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. I'm a sport climber, but a couple of my climbing buddies will only do trad. 3 and up, and really really love the 0. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Based on your experience of falling off trad climbs, how often has a piece popped/ripped? This poll is aimed at people who are regularly falling off. Double cams are nice to have but really depends on where you're climbing. I did that and then filled in with master cams and c3's for smaller sizes, and DMM offset nuts. For rock Why only passive pro? I've climbed with a set of nuts (at this point it's entirely random - i've lost a few and bootied a few), but I have never wanted anything else besides cams. If the climbing is hard, it's definitely easier to place a cam where you could have placed a regular nut, and an offset can usually go in as well. Personally, the DMM offset nuts go up with me on every pitch. g. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. 2) and below that blue ballnut and brass offset nuts for granite Offset nuts and micro nuts How have you been living with just that old square rack of nuts? Here's a quick rundown on why ball nuts might be better than similarly sized cams from Sierra Mountain Guides: Demystifying the Ball Nut. What is stopping be from using a nut on a horizontal for at least some pro. Can't go wrong with the classic BD Camelot's. Trad climbing is constant critical thinking and judgement calls. This is rock type dependent, and I've found that many crags have irregular rock types without many sections of truly parallel sided cracks. Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. com you can also add a 10% off your order by adding "10percent" as a code. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. I called it "lucky one" as it usually fits nearly every DMM wallnut, size 3. Totems to black (bd 0. For example, in some places offset nuts and tricams are invaluable, and other places they're specialty pieces. When climbing multi pitch routes, you’re definitely going to want a larger selection of widgets. offsets are much more a clean aid climbing thing. when I'm not climbing that style, like if I'm on aeolian granite or breccia I'm largely loving cams The black totem cam, pink tricam and blue offset nut have a sort of cult following amongst trad climbers, E1 is just a British trad grade :) Reply reply More repliesMore repliesMore replies I initially got Metolius offsets for aid climbing in the valley, but started bringing them on free climbs. I appreciate every placement is different and should be judged on its individual merits. That little gold wire held my first fall, and ever since, brings on good feelings on a lead. Occasionally some runners over the shoulder. Thanks for the advice and help everyone! Got some nuts and a cam to learn how to make placements from the ground, now I just have to find a mentor! Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options [deleted] • DMM nuts 1-11, and a BD C4 #1 I've personally found that normal nuts usually kinda fit in offset placements, but offsets fit terribly in non offset placements. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. pechn rnl gjsy jdaub dxczell utaqerm usbv pmr nxy whc

26th Apr 2024