Dmm alloy offsets vs dmm offsets. These units have a complex offset shape that .
Dmm alloy offsets vs dmm offsets. The DMM Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Fitting where other pieces of pro can’t, the DMM Alloy Offsets give us a little more confidence on thinly protected routes. I've read lots of posts of people raving about the Alloy Offsets, but very little user information about Superlight Offset Rocks. While we don't think the Black Diamond Offset Micros are great for everyday traditional routes, they are perfect for difficult or thinly protected free climbs, and pretty much mandatory on any Irregular is better. They're based on the original HB Offsets and have been around for donkeys years. With a complex, offset head geometry these nuts will place securely in flared cracks where regular nuts and cams may not sit well. BUY DMM Alloy Offsets. Oct 25, 2024 · The Alloy Offsets are slightly more affordable than the nearly identical Black Diamond Offset Stoppers, and while they are more expensive than most other passive protection on the market, we think the amount of security they can provide where more standard nuts or a cam can't will easily be worth it when that is your last piece looking to Aug 17, 2015 · While by no means an expert, I prefer the DMM Peanuts in the smaller offset nut sizes and the newly released WC Superlight Offsets for the larger. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. DMM have brought an old favourite back to the market, Alloy Offsets. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango Feb 10, 2011 · Standard rack 1 set of Rocks 1 set of Wallnuts 3 Dmm alloy Offsets 1 set of micro alloy wires (dmm or Wild country or BD) 1 set of brass micro wires Some climbers also add extra sizes that are commonly used (say an extra Wallnut 7), and some rock types and pitch lengths may lend themselves to carrying a third set of nuts. Sep 30, 2016 · A great graphic I stole from DMM that shows the geometry of the offsets. Apr 25, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. These units have been produced using the original, but highly modified HB dies, but we have tried to bring them into the 21st century with colour coded sizing, wires that are totally recessed into the heads and lightening holes in the largest two sizes. For complete protection, pair with Wallnuts. The asymmetrically tapered heads with grooved faces bite into pin scars and flared cracks, giving a stable placement, while the recessed wires reduce wear. The bright color coding lets us easily find the size we need, while the stiff wires give us optimal control for a full-reach placement. Even now, after several updates and a lot more fierce competition, they remain one of the very best nuts for the Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I used 3 offsets during the route, and the placements were perfect, the unconventional shape of the offset wires meant they slotted perfectly into the cracks. He finds them lacking in one May 9, 2024 · Based on our research and testing, we think the DMM Alloy Offsets is the best Climbing Nuts and Stoppers available in 2025. They fit in flares better than most of the nuts we tested save for Peenuts, DMM Alloy Offsets and Brass Offsets. Feb 6, 2018 · If regular nuts and most hexes are offset when placed in their sideways position, why are offset nuts so popular and even sold? For example: Is the angle significantly different between DMM Wallnuts in their sideways position and DMM HB Alloy Offsets that they work for different placements? Sep 21, 2022 · I would say the DMM is more or a standard flared shape than a true offset. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jul 16, 2025 · The red stopper is compared to the nut head of an offset nut. Jun 19, 2015 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Their asymmetrical taper ensures stable placements, while dual-orientation usability enhances versatility. Ideal for both trad and aid climbing, DMM Offsets seat securely in places where regular nuts and cams just won't work. That said, I don't think it will make much difference in practice. Rock Climbing Chat: A Comparison between the DMM Half Nuts and the DMM Offsets. Oct 9, 2015 · As with most passive protection however, parallel cracks are no better protected with the offsets than a standard nut. We used the nut in both The DMM offsets are first out of the bag for rhyolite in Wales and the Lakes, where Wallnuts would get the nod on grit. Alloy Offsets protect irregular, flared, and generally wonky cracks that regular nuts just can't sew up. Feb 14, 2010 · Product Description Alloy Offset - DMM They're back!!! DMM has resurrected the HB Alloy Offsets. I have a set of DMM offsets and I am thinking the brass offset micros would be the most versitile as the offsets can be places well enough where a non-offset can be places but has the added benefit of also being places in offset situations. DMM, a reputable name in climbing hardware, aims to provide reliable protection in these tricky placements. Dmm hb alloy offsets Dmm peenuts. The Offsets were originally designed by Hugh Banner, the climbing gear maestro who founded HB Climbing Equipment. JB Mountain Skills 32. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre DMM Alloy Offset on Wire Description Based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets, these nuts have been produced using modified versions of the original HB dies. What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season crack protection. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Oct 14, 2024 · Shop DMM Alloy Offsets | Be The First To Review DMM Alloy Offsets + Free Shipping over $49. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating, while the wires are set into a recess to reduce wear and larger sizes boast holes that reduce weight. The DMM Alloy Offset is the development of the original HB offset designed and made by the legendary Hugh Banner who founded HB Climbing Equipment. </p> <p>These st Aug 8, 2022 · Amazon. Every aspect of DMM's nuts is made to reduce abrasion Tech Specs Alloy Offset Set #7-11 This set of DMM Offsets gives you the versatility to protect flaring crack pitches that would otherwise warrant a serious runout. . Hb Alloy Offset 9 are wedges in an Offset design optimized for irregular cracks during free climbing or aid climbing. He made numerous impressive first ascents during his lifetime, including classic test pieces such as The Mangler (E3 6a) on Helsby way back in the 1960s! Hugh realised that conventional nuts don’t seat well in flared May 3, 2015 · My rack for grit is DMM Wallnuts 1-11 + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 For rhyolite, DMM offsets (brass and alloy) + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 So, to answer your question with a question, where do you climb? If predominantly grit, I'd go for the WC offsets, if the celtic fringes, DMM. Due to their complex offset shape the DMM Alloy Offsets offer placement opportunities when nothing else will fit, making them a vital part of your rack. I first encountered offsets years ago, and I’ve always been searching for the perfect set – one that balances strength, weight, and Nov 4, 2012 · I should articulated my intent better: I was referring to the alloy series sizes rather than the super micro brass offset types (say 2-5 kN rating) used more frequently for aid (although I'm sure some use these pieces for free applications). Their front-to-back shape, which is the same as Rocks on a Wire, works well in parallel sided cracks. Oct 31, 2024 · All the offset models we tested work pretty well in these types of cracks: the DMM Alloy Offset, the Black Diamond Offset Stopper, and for smaller spaces, the DMM Peenuts and DMM Brass Offset. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. Has anyone tried both the DMM Alloy Offsets and the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks? I'm wondering how they compare. When used in combination with regular nuts, they offer security in almost any crack. These Offsets are an improved design based on the classic HB Offsets which were discontinued in 2005. However, they are harder to clean, and less durable, so aren’t an ideal beginner nut. 95 Alloy Offsets provide reliable protection in irregular and flared cracks where standard nuts fail. Irregular is better. I think having a nut rack combined of these two would be perfect for the budding trad climber. Jan 7, 2020 · For that, a model like the aluminum headed (but still offset and small-sized) DMM Peenuts is best, especially when coupled with the DMM Alloy Offsets. Agree completely. Let's get nostalgic for a moment - the Alloy Offsets for once are not an original brainchild of the clever folks at DMM. Jan 27, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The DMM Alloy Offsets are super handy in pin scars and irregular sized cracks. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre When normal nuts won't do the job, reach for a set of DMM Alloy Offsets. Hugh was a real character and an extremely talented climber. Shortly after that conversation I randomly (not by design of course) found myself in at Desert Rock Sports in Vegas looking at a nice shiny set of DMM offset nuts while trying to justify why the complete rack of nuts already on my rack were insufficient to the task at hand. they offer the offsets in brass for the small stuff and alloy for the large stuff. 2K subscribers Subscribed They’re offset on two sides, and the single centred wire allows for more secure feeling placements on both axis than a standard Rock, which is usually less secure when placed laterally. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a the dmm offsets are actually two different sets and cover the range from tiny up to med-large. They fit into narrower pods extremely well because of their skinny heads and single cable. Oct 9, 2015 · HB Climbing's classic Offsets had almost been forgotten until DMM decided to give them a facelift, a new lick of paint and relaunch them in their new alloy form Oct 9, 2015 · As with most passive protection however, parallel cracks are no better protected with the offsets than a standard nut. Tech Specs Why We Like The DMM Alloy Offset Set #7-11 When the best placement is in a flaring crack or a pin scar, we reach for DMM's Alloy Offset Set #7-11. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre My rack for grit is DMM Wallnuts 1-11 + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 For rhyolite, DMM offsets (brass and alloy) + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 So, to answer your question with a question, where do you climb? If predominantly grit, I'd go for the WC offsets, if the celtic fringes, DMM. - The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. Die Offsets haben eine asymmetrische Form, eingelassene Drahtschlingen und zur gewichtsreduzierung zusätzliche Shop a wide selection of DMM HB Alloy Offset at DICK’S Sporting Goods and order online for the finest quality products from the top brands you trust. Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “ brassy ” or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. Aug 9, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I have several other options including the much-loved DMM offsets in the larger sizes. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. I would appreciate hearing personal experiences and Jun 30, 2020 · Buy the DMM Alloy Offsets online or shop all Climb from Backcountry. Jul 24, 2025 · View at Backcountry DMM Micro Wallnuts View at Backcountry DMM Alloy Offsets View at Backcountry Wild Country Superlight Offsets View at Amazon DMM Alloy Offsets Bryce’s take: The best and most useful nuts ever made, I've never used anything better. My imagination quickly came to the rescue May 3, 2015 · My rack for grit is DMM Wallnuts 1-11 + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 For rhyolite, DMM offsets (brass and alloy) + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 So, to answer your question with a question, where do you climb? If predominantly grit, I'd go for the WC offsets, if the celtic fringes, DMM. <p>Based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets, these nuts have been produced using modified versions of the original HB dies. If you were to get these nuts, I’d recommend complimenting them with a set of offset nuts. Nov 17, 2011 · Amazon. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. Jul 28, 2025 · First Impressions of DMM HB Alloy Offset The DMM HB Alloy Offset is designed to solve a problem every climber faces: inconsistent crack widths. The WC superlight offsets are, for me, a backup to either on any route, giving you a double rack with extra alternative placements (offset or standard) and for a healthy weight reduction. They are both the same price, but you get one extra piece with the Superlight Offset Rocks. Offsets were originally produced in both their brass micro wire, and alloy macro wire (a purely invented term!) forms by HB Climbing of Wales. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. When normal nuts won't do the job, reach for a set of DMM Alloy Offsets. The other granite place has this super spiky rock which had loads of placements for wild country rocks 11-14 (huge) and hexes. Grooved faces improve DMM Alloy Offsets to zestaw pięciu kości offset'owych stanowiący uzupełnienie klasycznych kości wspinaczkowych DMM Wallnuts. Their mounting wires are set back to minimize wear, and larger sizes feature weight-reducing holes. DMM have brought them up to date with colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes. Their large surface area helps dissipate forces, making them suitable for protecting fragile rock. I rarely ever bring offset cams, but DMM alloy and brass offsets are frequently on the rack for granite. And I really love them nuts. These tiny pieces of passive protection revolutionized what is possible with traditionally placed gear when they were first released. The SL offset rocks are closer to a DMM Offset than the DMM half nuts. These units have a complex offset shape that Micro protection for small offset cracks Peenuts have the same asymmetrical taper as Alloy Offsets, allowing them to protect flared and irregular shaped cracks more effectively than symmetrical nuts. With a 12kN strength rating, they are durable and lightweight, featuring recessed wires to reduce wear and weight-saving holes in larger sizes. Tech Specs Why We Like The DMM Alloy Offsets Fitting where other pieces of pro can't, the DMM Alloy Offsets give us a little more confidence on thinly protected routes. The DMM Alloy Offsets and versatile nuts with an offset taper that allows them to protect flared and irregular cracks. The DMM Alloy Offsets, also known as Gold 7Nuts, feature an offset taper designed to provide protection in cracks where standard nuts may not fit properly, including flared cracks and peg scars. Są mniejsze i nieco lżejsze od klasycznych kości DMM Wallnuts. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season cr Tech Specs Alloy Offset Set #7-11 This set of DMM Offsets gives you the versatility to protect flaring crack pitches that would otherwise warrant a serious runout. Aug 12, 2014 · The dmm alloy offsets will definitely joining my rack but can anyone shed any light on the benefits of peenuts vs the dmm brass offsets? This is for trad climbing incidentally, the bigger ones might join my winter rack too. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I am a big fan of the DMM alloy offsets, but there are BD offset stoppers as well. He finds them lacking in one Nov 23, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Are these any better than the DMM versions or vice versa? The Ex-Engineer 31 Aug 2016 The DMM Alloy Offset Set features a complex shape which offers placement oppertunities when nothing else will fit. They are asymmetric to maximise placement options and excel in slightly flared placements like nothing else. Oct 14, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Dec 13, 2009 · Likes Wild Country Superlight Rocks fit all types of cracks. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Hugh realised that conventional nuts don’t sit well in flared cracks, so he designed the Offset. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season cr DMM have brought an old favourite back to the market, Alloy Offsets. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. He made numerous impressive first ascents during his lifetime, including classic test pieces such as The Mangler (E3 6a) on Helsby way back in the 1960s! Irregular is better. com. About the DMM Alloy Offset Add a set of DMM Alloy Offsets to your conventional nut set to add a touch of versatility to your rack. Are these any better than the DMM versions or vice versa? The Ex-Engineer 31 Aug 2016 The DMM Alloy Offsets and versatile nuts with an offset taper that allows them to protect flared and irregular cracks. Toby Archer, a big fan of the old HB Offsets, goes out cragging and takes them through their paces. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season… Mar 7, 2009 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. As an experiment I also tried placing standard DMM wallnuts in the same placements, and they were less than convincing! Irregular is better. Available individually or as a set. I've sourced some brand new HB offsets (brass & alloy) and (I think) IMP equivalents. These are great budget option if you have not yet sprung for the Metolius Offset Master Cams. Each size boasts a sturdy 12kN strength rating. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. I have a set and absolutely love them. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre DMM Offsets Set 7 - 11 - Klemmkeile mit einzigartiger Form und vielseitigen KlemmeigenschaftenKlemmkeile mit einzigartiger Form und vielseitigen Klemmeigenschaften! Aufgrund der speziellen Form lassen sich die Offsets auch in Risse legen, in denen sonst nicht mehr viel hält. Aug 13, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The DMM Alloy Offset Set features a complex shape which offers placement oppertunities when nothing else will fit. com : DMM Alloy Offset : Climbing Passive Protection Hardware : Sports & OutdoorsHelp others learn more about this product by uploading a video! DMM Alloy Offset $ 16. com : DMM Alloy Offsets : Sports & OutdoorsAlloy Offsets excel in safeguarding irregular and flared cracks that standard nuts miss. Feb 7, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. vhewzzobgedhnlyigktxtblzovptdlqaqovuxztoanfxwvumuvkksw